Our call at Maputo was the maiden call for Holland America Lines, and therefore for the Rotterdam. Mozambique is still emerging from decades of war. First it’s war for independence lasted 10 years. Then after about two years of socialist rule, there was about 16 years of civil war ending in 1992. Now, however, the country is open for business and welcoming tourists.
The port lecturer portrayed Maputo as a primitive and dangerous—with petty crimes especially—place where you best not go out alone, especially at night. We were sent a note by the ship’s excursion department warning of poor infrastructure, variable quality buses, and local inexperienced guides. So we were expecting something on the order of Vanuatu! What a surprise as we sailed in to see high-rise buildings and a large commercial port. The city may be crowded and poor, and the climate may be hot and humid, but for a developing nation they seem to be well on their way.
Maputo Skyline
The city is actually a major port for not only Mozambique, but also South Africa, and some of the land locked countries to the west. South Africa built one of the highways we traveled on so that they could more easily transport goods. It is a toll road with SA receiving the revenue, but after a few decades the road’s control will revert to Mozambique.
We had booked a panoramic excursion, but because of the warnings, John decided not to go. As it turned out, the buses and roads were much better than what we had endured in Vanuatu. We were driven out into the countryside and saw rural life along the road. We were struck by how many people there were walking along the road. (Sorry, the images aren’t very sharp; they wer shot from a moving tour bus.)
Lots of People Walking Along the Roads
Our destination was the Pequenos Libombos Dam which provides fishing and a small amount of electricity. Along the way we saw several villages, some lads herding their cattle along the road.
Herd Along the Road
We also passed a spot along a small river where people go to wash their colorful clothes, which they lay out on the grass to dry in the sun.
Washing Clothes in the River
Just before reaching the dam, we stopped for light refreshments at a complex that we think was build for the people who work(ed?) at the dam. There were a few peacocks roaming the grounds.
Peacock
After the dam, we headed back to the city to see some of its sight, especially some of the colonial buildings.
Random Building
Random Mosque
But first, we had another refreshment stop at the Jardim dos Namorados, a small botanical garden and amusement park overlooking the Indian Ocean.
We drove along the Costa del Sol, a beautiful, long beach with many expensive homes overlooking it.
Clamming on the Costa del Sol
Nelson Mandella’s second and current wife was once the wife of the president of Mozambique and still has a very nice place across the road from the beach.
On into town, we stopped to view the Iron House. Yes the house was built of iron. Quite an innovation at the time, except that you don’t really want the wall to conduct heat in a place that gets very hot. In fact it was another hot, humid day so I am glad we weren’t invited in!
Iron House
Another Portuguese legacy is the patterned stone sidewalks.
Portuguese Legacy
One of the final sights was the railroad station said to have been built in1910 by Gustav Eiffel although our guide said that recently some people have been questioning that attribution.
Railroad Station
All-in-all we had a good time in Maputo and wish Mozambique well.
Farewell Maputo